Visa support (if required)
Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp
Registration in local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Accommodation:
– – in Bishkekl: Hotel 3* – 2 nights maximum
– – in Karkara Camp: tents (2 people sharing basis, incl. breakfast) – 2 night maximum
– – in Khan-Tengri Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis
Full board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp – unlimited
Full board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp – unlimited
Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri Peak (Chapaev Peak)
Summer Shower and Russian Baths in Base Camp
Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.
Service included in standard program Karkara-Karkara:
Visa support (if required)
Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit
Registration in local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Helicopter flight Karkara – Khan-Tengri Base Camp – Karkara (baggage limit is 30kg, surcharge is USD 5 per kg per one way flight)
Accommodation in climbers’ own tents on the territory of Base Camp
Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri (Chapaev Peak)
Summer Shower in Base Camp
Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.
Service available at extra payment:
One way land transfer Bishkek – Karakol$ 150 per transfer by minibus, 10 persons max
One way land transfer Karakol – Karkara$ 160 per transfer by minibus, 10 persons max
Baggage delivery from Karkara to Khan-Tengri Base Camp $5 per kg
Note: : Baggage is delivered by scheduled flight
Meals: Full Board in Karkara Camp $ 40 per person per day
Meals: Full Board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp $ 65 per person per day
Set of high altitude food – USD 120 per set
Cooking set – USD 25
Rent of tents for higher camps – USD 80 per programme
Bar
Internet in the camp – USD 5 per hour
International calls by satellite phone – USD 4 per minute
Accommodation in Bishkek:
Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room $ 60-75, standard single room $50-60 incl. breakfast
Note: : Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, and Guest Houses are available by request
Equipment for rent (tent, sleeping mat, gas canisters and gas stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)
Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: $ 10 per canister (230 gr)
– Mountain Guide: $ 3500 per programme
– Mountain Guide trained according
to programme of UIAGM standards $ 4200 per programme
NB: We recommend minimum guide to client ratio 1:2 maximum. For group of 3 clients we advise to have the second Guide. Minimum $ 2000 is charged for any number of working days of Mountain Guide of the guide’s agreement is terminated earlier than 5 days by client’s will.
Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (available in Bishkek only – safety deposit $300 is required): $ 10 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
Use of sat phone and internet in Base Camp is paid according to price list
Acclimatization programme on Ak-Sai Glacier
Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Issyk-Kul Lake
Excursions in Bishkek, Karakol, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others
Conditions and notes:
1.Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 7 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 7 weeks) extra charge for formalities $ 50 per person is charged.
2.Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves.
3.Usually organization providing helicopter for work in area of Khan-Tengri Peak confirms price for helicopter service just before the season – in May. In case of significant rise in prices for helicopter flights (10% and more) ITMC reserves the right to change programme price accordingly. In any case the question of price will be solved by mutual consent.
4.Every climber can take on helicopter up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (approx. one rucksack per person). If you plan to have more than 70 kg of overweight, inform us in advance please, so we can check total weight on your flight. The price for overweight baggage on helicopter is $ 5 per kg.
5.Helicopter in area of Inylchek glacier usually operates from July 15 till August 30 and sometimes till September 10.
6.If expedition group decides to send mountaineering outfit to Bishkek or Karakol in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Karakol. For more details please contact us.
7. Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of $ 40 000.
Route description:
CLASSICAL ROUTE FROM SOUTH INYLCHEK GLACIER VIA WEST EDGE OF THE SEMENOVSKI GLACIER
It is recommended to reserve first 2 days for walks on glacier in the area of Base Camp for acclimatization.
Move to Camp 1 at 4200 m. Cross South Inylchek Glacier (approx. 6 km) to Camp 1 at the Shubin bivouac (4200 m). It takes 2-4 hours. And it is usual to leave base camp early in the afternoon and sleep in Camp 1 in preparation for a very early start next day. On the glacier there is no serious dangerous except small rivers with swift streams.
It is recommended to go round the rivers or cross it with safety equipment on snow places.
Move to Camp 2. Due to the prevalence of avalanche activity from the top of Mt Chapaeva (6371 m), and chance increases during a day time, we advise to make a very early start for the next section of the route. Ascent follows through the narrow and steep Semenovsky Glacier icefall to its upper reaches. To minimise the risk from the icefall it is important to pass this part of ascent route very fast and before sunrise. The best if you pass the place under icefall by 7:30am, and get to the Camp 2 by 12pm. Be aware of crevasses on the way and move only as roped team. Camp 2 can be pitched just below the west col at the altitude of about 5300 m. There is usually a snow cave at this point that may be used (on a “first come, first served” basis). Risk from icefall is bigger after mid August.
During period of acclimatisation we recommend to spend two nights at Camp 2, so climbers ascend to 6200 m – 6500 m before descend to the Base Camp for rest.
From Camp 2 route continues up the western ridge, where fixed ropes afford some protection for short climbs over two or three metres wide couloirs that interrupt the snow slope.
After acclimatization in Camp 2, and rest in the Base Camp, for the second ascent it is possible to make the way from Base Camp to Camp 3 at one day.
List of equipment:
High altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, snowshoes, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood (down, goretex), warm & waterproof over-gloves or mitts, cap, balaclava, mountaineering or climbing harness, climbing helmet, karabiners (2 x screwgate), prussic loops x 2 (5 m / 16 ft of 6 mm cord), rope, ice axe, 5 season sleeping bag (dawn, for up to -30C), thermarest or similar sleeping mat, high altitude tent, rucksack (60-80 l), head-torch, sunglasses, trekking poles, ice axe
Chapaev Peak 5900 m, Semenovsky Glacier
Western ridge of Khan-Tengri Peak
